
INTO THE HEART
OF FIORDLAND
Aotearoa’s largest national park isn’t just big — with rainfall measured in metres and cliffs that dive as deep below the surface as they rise above it, this place feels more like Jurassic Park than anything else. And when red stags start roaring through the misted valleys, it gets even more cinematic.So when three Kiwi mates — Khan, Norts, and Cam — teamed up with an American mate Troy Stewart, they decided to throw themselves into it. Literally. They took Khan’s boat straight into the steep-sided wilderness of Bligh / Hāwea Sound, despite having little experience living off a boat. As expected, that made for an eventful ride.
They had ten days blocked out, but Fiordland doesn’t care about your schedule. The weather called the shots. First came the 9-hour drive from Canterbury to Milford Sound, then a 3-hour boat trip through temperamental swells. The rain kicked in as they pulled into a creek mouth beside their basecamp. Once the gear was offloaded, Khan and Cam anchored the boat in a nearby cove and inflated their new best mate — Bubbles, the blow-up dinghy that gave them access to the steep coastal bush few ever step foot in.
The following days brought classic Fiordland weather — drizzle, the odd blue sky, and a chorus of rutting stags. They pushed into the thick bush and had some wild close calls, but nothing mature enough stepped out. They let the young fellas go. The freezers back home were already full of venison anyway — what they really craved was seafood.
Neither Khan nor Cam are exactly spearfishing pros, but they still packed the wetsuits. Despite the spooky descent through the tannin-stained freshwater layer, they emerged in eerie blue saltwater and found cracks stuffed with crays. Between the green-lipped mussels and a couple of blue cod, they were eating well — but taking only what was needed. The catch limits out there are tight for a reason.
Then Fiordland did what it does best — changed the script. A big weather system was rolling in. Khan and Cam moved the boat to a more sheltered bay to ride it out, leaving Norts and Troy at basecamp where they’d eventually be met by strong winds and broken tent poles. They’d sleep on the boat, tuck in tight, and hope for the best.
As the wind built, they were joined by a family on a 50ft yacht — a couple and their two sons, Andrew and Kyle, practical as hell and absolute legends. They lent a heavier anchor setup, likely saving the boat from ending up in the rocks. That night, the rain hammered down, and cooking became a soggy affair. They’d been saving a leg of lamb for a treat — but once they cracked the packet, a sour smell hit them. They ignored it (rookie move), roasted it anyway, and then swiftly fed it to the fish. Along with a cabbage they’d accidentally melted a plastic lid into.
The next morning Cam reached for his Kindle only to realise the boat was flooding. Bilge pump failure. Thankfully, their new neighbours helped them get sorted. But their window to escape was closing. They didn’t fancy getting trapped by the next weather front, so made the call to pull the pin — after catching a few bonus bluenose tuna on the way out.
"No trophy stag. No five-star feed. Just seven days of full-throttle Fiordland chaos - soaked to the bone, stomachs full of fish, and a yarn we'll be telling for years."

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