For me, Tahiti and specifically Teahupo’o, are the most magical places on earth. The huge green mountains, crystal clear water, waterfalls, and the most incredible wave in the world all make it feel really majestic, almost fictional. 

Teahupo’o, the wave and the village, are on the southwest corner of Tahiti’s smaller island. It’s the farthest corner you can get to on the island, with the road essentially stopping at the break — which is why the location is known as The End of the Road. Because, it is.

For Tahitians, the ocean and rivers are naturally a part of daily life and a source of an intimate connection for the people who live there. Growing up in Tahiti, Matahi’s been fishing and swimming in these waters since he was 12 years old. Fishing and spearfishing early in the morning and late at night with a flashlight offers him an unique familiarity with the reef. He knows where the channels are, how the currents are moving, and is just generally well-oriented here which adds to comfort and confidence when the waves are big. So that when he does get beat by a big wave, he knows the reef so well from being out there on the down days, that he is able to navigate underwater and ride it out.