Shane Dorian
Known by most as the best big-wave surfer of his generation, Shane's contributions to the community reach beyond his amazing rides, including being instrumental in creating the inflatable wetsuit, changing the game in safety for himself and his fellow surfers. As an avid bow hunter, husband, and father, he continues to spend time balancing his life on the big island of Hawaii among his greatest passions.
Q: What goes through your head when you first wake up in the morning when you surf?
A: I get excited to see what the day will bring; the surf changes every day, and I love that first surf check in the morning.
Q: If you could do anything better, what would it be?
A: I’d be a better parent.
Q: Who are your heroes? Who do you look up to?
A: I have a few older friends that have raised great children, and being a parent, I have a lot of respect for those who put a lot of time and effort into their kids.
Q: What haven’t you accomplished that you aspire to do in your lifetime?
A: Wow, that s a tough one. I would like to get to the point where I don't need to surf big waves as much. I just want to spend a lot more time with my family and spend less time figuring out how to make that happen.
Q: If there is any love-hate relationship with any aspect of what you do, can you describe what that is?
A: I love that surfing is my job and I love all the travel I do, but I also travel a bit more than I would like. Finding a balance between “work” and being home with my family is the thing that is hardest to achieve.
Q: What would be your day job if you weren’t doing what you are currently doing?
A: A firefighter
