Chris Malloy

Q: What goes through your head when you first wake up in the morning?


A: Which way is the wind blowing?


Q: Where is your favorite place to surf?


A: Too many good places. Maybe Western Australia?


Q: How do you up your game year after year?


A: By diversifying what I do in the ocean. My back and hips are never going to do what they did at 25 years old. So for me it’s surfing smart, using my experience to fill in the gaps where muscle might not be what it used to. Its also just learning more about the ocean through diving and fishing. Unless your name is Jacques Cousteau, you can always learn more about the sea. I've been in and on the water for over 40 years, and I’m still seeing sea creatures for the first time.


Q: Who are your heroes?


A: I’ve always had a lot of heroes. Folks like Ed Abbey, Pat Curren, Dickie Gibford. People that had a healthy distrust of society.


Q: What sound or noise do you love?


A: The sound of a white sea bass croaking underwater.


Q: What would be your day job if you weren’t doing what you are currently doing?


A: I’m involved in a bunch of different jobs. Anything outside suites me fine.


Q: If you could bring anybody in the world with you to do what you love (dead or alive), who would it be?


A: I might be aboard the Snark with Jack London sailing into Honolulu.